Monday, May 18, 2015

The Fat Duck

In my misbegotten youth I (and wife Suzanne) ate at a crazy 13 three-star French restaurants in 12 days, and I have found my way to Australia’s best on numerous occasions over the years.  There have also been return visits, or new visits, to European gastronomic landmarks, the one miss being elBulli.

A few weeks ago Suzanne and I made our homage to The Fat Duck, and I don’t doubt that there has been much comment from professional and casual observers on all media platforms.  But, for whatever reason, I had not read any of that, so I arrived without any specific preconceptions, but certainly with great expectations.

The one thing I did know about was the wine list, having provided some inconsequential advice – inconsequential because when I first saw it prior to the opening of The Fat Duck, I had marvelled at the breadth and quality of the wines that had been chosen.  What I did not know then, was just how moderate the prices would be, every wine priced to sell, with a mark up well below the industry norm for a restaurant such as this.

But that is not what I’m on about: it is the 13 courses which (subject to dietary no-go's) are presented to all who have eaten there since it was opened on 4 February 2015.  There is a connecting chord of whimsy that rises to the surface on many of the dishes: thus Savoury Lollies, Snail Porridge, Mad Hatter’s Tea Party, Sound of the Sea, Hot and Iced Tea, The Not-So-Full English Breakfast, and Like a Kid in a Sweet Shop.

You do also get more specific details of each course on the menu, and once you get started, there are elements of molecular cuisine, very clever, and interlaced with the stories behind each dish, and (it hardly needs be said) none derivative.  The presenters (‘waiters’ does not begin to do them justice) of each dish genuinely understand how it is assembled, and the reasons for the inclusion of every part in the recipe – although this is an inadequate word to describe a creation that successively lays siege to your mind, your eyes, your sense of smell, and (most importantly) what you taste.

Each dish is a visual work of art from the ground up of what it is presented on or in though to the food itself.  But there is never a sense that the theatre of the creation and the presentation of each dish is all too clever, or more important than what you eat.

And so to the evening as a whole.  We arrive shortly after 7pm. And left shortly before midnight.  The timing of the dishes flowed seamlessly: there was never an awkward pause, the service of the perfectly matched wines likewise.  The actual menu follows, and it serves no useful purpose for me to give a description of each of the dishes.  But this was, quite simply, the greatest meal I have ever had in my life, and it’s inconceivable that I will ever have a greater dining experience.
MENU
AERATED BEETROOT

NITRO POACHED APERITIFS
Vodka and Lime Sour, Gin and Tonic, Tequila and Grapefruit
NV Egly Ouriet, Tradition, Grand Cru (Champagne)

RED CABBAGE CAZPACHO
Pommery Grain Mustard Ice Cream

SAVOURY LOLLIES
Waldorf Rocket, Salmon Twister and Feast
2008 Meursault, Clos des Ambres, Arnaud Ente (Burgundy)

JELLY OF QUAIL, MARRON CREAM
Caviar Sorbet, Oak Moss and Truffle Toast
(Homage to Alain Chapel)

SNAIL PORRIDGE
Joselito Ham, Shaved Fennel

ROAST MARRON
Shiitake, Confit Kombu and Sea Lettuce
2012 Riesling Grand Cru, Rangen de Thann, Clos Saint Urbain Domaine Zind Hunbrecht (Alsace)

MAD HATTER’S TEA PARTY
Mock Turtle Soup, Pocket Watch and Toast Sandwich
“SOUND OF THE SEA”

SALMON POACHED IN A LIQUORICE GEL
Endive, Vanilla Mayonnaise and Golden Trout Roe
2011 Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue (Burgundy)

LAMB WITH CUCUMBER
Green Pepper and Caraway

HOT & ICED TEA

BOTRYTIS CINEREA
2001 Sauterns, Chateau Suduiraut, Cru Classe (Bordeaux)

THE NOT-SO-FULL ENGLISH BREAKFAST

WHISKY WINE GUMS

“LIKE A KID IN A SWEET SHOP”